spanish fashion in the 1800s

Despite these minor criticisms, the anthology is an invaluable resource for the study of Spanish dress. 1809. The Spanish colonies first produced exotic dyes, which delivered bright reds and the deepest blacks, colors that still define the Spanish palette in religious, regional, and fashionable apparel, beginning in the sixteenth century. New York and London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group, 2015. https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/plugins/zotpress/, 1583/5 Annibale Carracci, Portrait of a Woman Holding a Clock, 1906 John White Alexander, Study in Black and Green, 1787 Adlade Labille-Guiard, Madame Adlade, 1801 Marie Denise Villers, Young Woman Drawing, The caraco is an 18th-century womens jacket, fi, The 1970s were marked by a progression towards cas, Bombast is a padding used to structure clothing an, An American painter and illustrator, John White Al, Based on the 1811 novel of the same name by Jane A, Adlade Labille-Guiards 1787 portrait of Kin, Marie Denise Villers 1801 painting, Young Woman Dr, Kohl is a black material made out of minerals such, The 1820s was a transitional period for womens, The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s (2017), Addressing the Century: 100 Years of Art and Fashion (1998), 100 Dresses: The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (2010), We Were There: Harlie Des Roches on the Black Presence in Renaissance Europe, Hymn to Apollo: The Ancient World and the Ballets Russes, Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving, Grand Opening of the Museum of Historical Costume in Poznan, Poland, http://dx.doi.org.i.ezproxy.nypl.org/10.5040/9781474264716.0003223, http://dx.doi.org.i.ezproxy.nypl.org/10.5040/9781474264716.0004454, http://dx.doi.org.i.ezproxy.nypl.org/10.5040/9781474264716.0002469, http://dx.doi.org.i.ezproxy.nypl.org/10.5040/9781350986381.ch-002, http://dx.doi.org.i.ezproxy.nypl.org/10.5040/9781474264716.0004011. Regardless of its popularity at the Spanish court, its Spanish appropriation first began outside the royal sphere. History of Fashion 1840 - 1900 - Victoria and Albert Museum This fact makes it more difficult to notice the changes, which were relatively subtle, and creates the illusion that male costume was less changeable than the female. Imported Indian shawls were wildly expensive luxuries, and a favorite of Empress Josphine (Fig. Girl's dress, back view, 1800-1810. Zieseniss, Charles Otto, and Katell Le Bourhis, eds. Infants were dressed in long, back-fastening dresses featuring a low neckline and short sleeves, and a simple baby cap (Fig. Melbourne, Australia: The National Gallery of Victoria, D111.a-b-1974. 2) (le Bourhis 109-112). Silk, linen, metal. La Biblioteca Nacional expone una seleccin de sus fondos de fotografa histrica de autores que trabajaron en Espaa en el XIX. Dresses were colorful as well as attractive, so this style went from the common people to the high classes. After the French Revolution, the women of Paris were the first to abandon the ornate, constricting and overbearing fashions of the 1700s. Instead, nudity was suggested in the revealing cut of dresses. Previous studies on early modern and Spanish dress feature some of the participants in this anthology, including Ruth de la Puerta, Carmen Bernis, and Aileen Ribeiro, among many others. Brummell wore an immaculate suit of pantaloons, blue dress coat, starched cravat, and polished hessian boots (Figs. Glasscock, Jessica. As they state, Clothing and other material objects do not merely serve to identify the various social types depicted; they also create a dramatic picture of a period in the urban life of Madrid (p. 370). Indeed, this shift also furthered separated court costume from general wear. These were an element of the skeleton suit, a garment that originated in the 1780s (Fig. The prevailing fashion for pantaloons tucked into boots was, at least in part, inspired by the military; the ultra-fashionable hessian boots, defined by their cleft tops trimmed with tassels (Fig. Sometimes the jacket had shortened, squared tails in the back (Fig. Colomers and Descalzos two-volume anthology participates in this scholarly trend that lends critical attention to the consideration of fashion, textiles, and costume. Furthermore, with designers such as Ralph Laurens use of ruffles and matador hats, D&Gs fringed dress, and Oscar de la Rentas flounced skirts and flamenco heeled shoes, traditional Spanish culture continues to affect the fashion industry even today, where art and fashion merge as an expression of innovation that continues attracting attention, accolades, and praise globally. Purchased with the aid of the Art Fund (Scottish Fund) 1992. His line of Spanish-inspired ensembles was bursting with romantic jewel-toned shades and opulent dresses. Either were appropriate in the daytime, but for evening wear, cream breeches paired with a black or blue dress coat, white waistcoat, and stockings were considered correct (Byrde 93; Johnston 14). By fifteen, a boy made the full transition to mens styles, switching the open collar for a cravat and donning adult tailcoats and breeches (Buck 194-196; P. Cunnington 172-175; Callahan). In France, sans-culottes (meaning without breeches or stockings) were adopted by revolutionaries who wanted to protest the conspicuous consumption of the past and dress more like the everyman. The origin of this garment was the chemise dress of the 1780s, worn by influential women such as Marie Antoinette and Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire (Ashelford 174-175). Inspired by early Greek and Roman clothing, women incorporated draping techniques into their dresses and opted for fine white or light-colored fabrics. Cunnington 29-30). On the other hand, mens clothing became less embellished and more practical as a way to signify their work ethic and solidarity with the working class. Style Revolution: Journal des Dames et des Modes (1797-1804) Digitized! If you have suggestions or corrections, pleasecontact us. Rogers Fund, 1932. Each piece of clothing is a record in itself, an heirloom of history and a story of its wearer. You can explore the evolution of late 1800s fashion in the following articles, which detail the famous Victorian fashion of the second half of the century: The Victorian Age officially began in 1837, when 18-year-old Victoria ascended the throne of England. Thus, the anthology focuses on courtly dress within Spain and Spanish fashions appropriations and modifications outside of Iberia. Portrait of Count Andrey Bezborodko, 1804. 4). This major shift in fashion came from a renewed interest in Greek and Roman antiquity, as well as the egalitarian ideals and philosophies from the age of enlightenment. When the visitor inquired about them, the valet responded, Those, sir, are our failures (Laver 160). 1, 5, 6) (Ashelford 186; Cumming 83). The wide panniers, conical stays, and figured silks of the eighteenth century had melted into a neoclassical dress that revealed the natural body, with a high waist and lightweight draping muslins (Fig. Descalzo suggests that the 1500s marked the height of Spanish influence, although in the 17th century Spain continued to pioneer important developments in dress, including changes made by legal provisions (pragmticas) to curb excessive spending on clothing, and to craft new silhouettes and styles, including the golilla, the famed collar associated with Philip IV (r. 162165). White was the color of choice for 1800s dresses, especially when it came to formal evening wear. However, it was the violently shifting politics at the end of the eighteenth century that spurred this style to the forefront. 2). Acquired, 1923. Spanish Fashion. As the silhouette narrowed, girls could dispense with layers of petticoats, instead wearing just one. Pinterest. She asserts that Charles I (r. 151656) and Philip II (r. 155698) defined the image of the Spanish king, which combined local and international styles. A boy remained in the skeleton suit until about age ten; a transitional variation was sometimes worn by older boys in which the short jacket was worn outside the trousers. Mantilla is a traditional Spanish veil piece worn during religious festivities such as weddings, holy week, or even during bullfights in Spain. London: The Victoria & Albert Museum, T.24-1946. Miller argues that the prince attempted to manage these delicate proceedings by using dress as a vehicle to express his knowledge of Spanish etiquette and his sensitivity to Spanish traditions, potentially useful strategies when engaging in diplomacy. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.2841. Laura R. Bass and Amanda Wunder highlight Madrid as a new site of high fashion and bustling urbanity, especially after Philip II designated it as the permanent capital in 1561, in Fashion and urban views in seventeenth-century Madrid. Gabrielle Coco Chanel was one of the 20th centurys most influential fashion designers and she revolutionized womens fashion. 5) (C.W. The Napoleonic Wars also influenced menswear, as men in uniform dominated life (Fig. While the women preferred heavily patterned ball gowns worn over the Spanish farthingale. Finally, during the 1800s, trousers gained some acceptance as an informal choice. Detailing was limited to delicate white embroidery or subtle woven patterns, although frills and tucks were later frequently added to the hem of the gown. In order to situate the anthologys place within an existing body of literature, a short historiography would have also been useful. Court costume, ca. Color and adornment became the nearly-exclusive prerogative of womens fashion. Instead, fashionable gowns were simple and restrained, featuring empire waistlines and white or pastel flowing fabrics. However, Brummell took this style and best distilled it, fusing the wearer and the dress in his person (Davidson 201). By the 18th & 19th-century, women accessorized by wearing rosaries on their hands visible to everybody. Several pieces completed the male ensemble. Outerwear and accessories were essential elements of the period, often introducing pops of color (Ashelford 178). Young men wore white silk shirts, frilled and embroidered at the neck and wrists. His was a dandyism of austere refinement, one in which the man shines through the clothes (Byrde 94-95; Cicolini). Everything from the hairstyles to the draping shawls evoked antiquity; the preeminence of white as a dress color was due, in part, to the incorrect assumption drawn from classical statuary that classical women only wore white. 1808 John Heathcoat patents a bobbin-net machine, allowing net to be manufactured much more affordably. Today, designers from all over the world continue to look to Spain for inspiration. She has focused much of her research on the nineteenth century, particularly millinery and theatre costume. Interest in classical antiquity had been growing throughout the second half of the eighteenth century, following the excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum. What is especially significant about Van Wyhes essay is her discussion of the conflation of monastic and fashionable dress at court, evaluating specific cases of female monarchs. Clothing styles were less local and more international as trade and imperialism helped globalize the fashion scene. The chemise dress, in part, reflected a neoclassicism that was beginning to emerge in fashion. Edinburgh: National Galleries Scotland, PG 708. A discussion of 1800s textiles would be incomplete without mention of the resurgence of French silk. De la Puertas and Guarinos essays address sumptuary regulations and luxury restrictions. In 1804, Napoleon declared the Empire, becoming Emperor, and he revived the luxury and pomp of the ancien rgime, instituting lavish court dress once again. Instead, many rural and lower-class women embraced economical fabrics like durable types of cotton, which were more affordable and easier to clean. Join us on a journey through the world of Spanish fashion, where we discuss every major style from 1500s to 2020s, from historic flamenco to modern flared! The publication of the first known Spanish book and manual on tailoring in 1580 indicated a change in perspective in styling and fashion. The instep strap on pantaloons is attributed to Brummell as a mechanism to maintain a taut line (Byrde 94). ; Custom and Made-To-Order Hats are . Carmen Bernis has written extensively about early modern Spanish dress, from court fashions during the reigns of Charles V and the Catholic Kings to her study of dress and social types in Don Quijote. 10 - Pierre-Paul Prud'hon (French, 1758-1823). Like women's styles, waistlines were emphasized with waistcoats and long jackets pinched at the waistline and flaring outward. Gowns were also full at the back, often sporting a small train to help create an elegant draping effect. During the day, the low neckline could be filled in with a chemisette or tucker (Foster 22). Source: ArtUK. Enslaved women would sew quilt-like patches of vibrant textiles into their Western garb, paying homage to traditional styles from their African origins. Fashionable women consciously sought to reproduce the supposed fashions of Ancient Greece or Rome. Edited by Valerie Steele, 182-184. 1802. 1, 5). The eighteenth-century bicorne, a hat with a turned-up brim creating two points, was still seen (Fig. These topics are crucial for discussing the history of dress since they can often alter how dress develops locally and globally. Brummell has been recreated in plays and Hollywood films, and modern menswear brands still invoke his name to represent quality and refinement (David). Healy Purchase Fund B. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. 1804 Napoleon becomes Emperor. They featured stand collars and could be made of a variety of materials, solid or patterned; indeed, most of the color left in mens clothing retreated to the waistcoat (Fig. Spain has always been a country of contrasts. New York: The Brooklyn Museum, 1989.28. In the United States, silk stocking was used as an insult against those people who represented bourgeois, aristocratic ideals. Cunnington 28; Davidson 63-64; Laver 155). However, in other parts of the world, second-class citizens or servants would don fine Western garb to subvert and defy the expectations of those in power. It was a flashy style in the 1940s and 1950s adopted by Latinos in big. Oil on canvas; 240 x 148 cm. 4) (Byrde 25-27; C.W. It was an ode to the classic Spanish rich textiles and traditional embroidery worn by the aristocracy of the golden age. When buckles did become available later in the century, they were often retrofitted to latchet tie shoes to extend their life. Fashion Plate: "London Head Dresses", ca. While every attempt at accuracy has been made, the Timeline is a work in progress. These are high-necked and long-sleeved. 2, 7) (Johnston 146, le Bourhis 95, 104). Painted scenes of this burgeoning metropolis capture fashionable centers of the capital and represent them as crowded and diverse spaces where spectatorship was prevalent and clothing was an important distinguisher and marker. In this article, we have put together an exhaustive list of every spanish fashion 1800s product on the market today, as well as our review of the products. Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009. Getty Coats Dress, 1805. The conference was in part inspired by and a tribute to Carmen Bernis (19282001), and the anthology is dedicated to her memory. 8 - Sir Henry Raeburn (Scottish, 1756-1823). Beginning in the previous decade, men abandoned the practice of powdering their hair and cropped it short, creating a natural, tousled appearance (Fig. Gift of Miss Eleanora Curtis. Not Just a Pretty Picture: Fashion as News. In. Egalitarian attitudes born from the age of enlightenment, which lasted from the 1600s to 1700s, encouraged more practical, attainable styles to help eliminate distinctions of social class. Coco Chanel collaborated with painters such as Pablo Picasso and became a trailblazer in pioneering the perfect modern expression of fashion through art and vice versa. Oil on canvas; (49 1/2 x 36 3/4 in). Also see the 19th-century overview page for more research sources or browse our Zotero library. Early 1700s Slender, asymetrical curves and soft drapery dominated women's costumes of the early 18th century. The Social Significance of Black Clothing. Portrait of Madame Tallien, 1806. This change further separated menswear from womenswear. Because of the number of essays included and the variety of topics addressed, it would have been helpful to have included an extended introduction to synthesize the ideas presented in the essays, explain the organizational choices and framework, and address more fully the interdisciplinary scope of the anthology. Both this and the use of light fabrics necessitated extra layers, particularly for those in colder climates. 10) (Jensen). The anthology covers a range of subjects, from broad thematic studies, such as Colomers Black and the royal image to more focused essays on individual tastemakers and patrons, like Marie Louise dOrlans (essay by Corinne Thpaut-Cabasset) and Catherine of Aragon (essay by Maria Hayward) and specific garments and styles, including the Tapado (essay by Carmen Peraita). (2) Ruth de la Puerta has written broadly on the history of dress, textile fabrication and techniques, guilds, and dressmakers. The era of Charles presented the austere black and white garments symbolizing religious influence. The time between 1556 1680 is heralded what is known as Spains golden age. The pants and jacket of the costume are usually the same color and adorned with intricate gold, silver, or black embroidery, sequins, and Austrian knots. The climate in Spain has suited itself to the growth of a diverse range of raw materials for textile production and craft skills. Have a primary source to suggest? This consisted of a bodice front attached to the skirt which was partially cut in a flap; once the wearer pulled on the sleeves and fastened the inner bodice lining, the skirt flap was pulled up where it was fastened with ties around the waist and the bodice front was pinned into place (Johnston 166; C.W. Trending toward the lighter floral decoration of Rococo in the first quarter of the 18th century, the predecessor to the classic buckle was the latchet tie (shown below). It was made in a variety of shapes, usually in felt; although the silk top hat began to be seen around 1803, it was not perfected until the 1830s (Ginsburg 85-86; le Bourhis 112-113). Fig. The uniformity of womens ensembles continued into the 1600s, although the authors point out that just as it did in male fashion, Spanish influence in female dress began to wane abroad. . The neoclassical dresses, particularly the empire waist, remained popular throughout the mid 19th century during a period known as the Regency era. Womens skirts be, Fashion in the 1860s followed some of the same trends as in previous decades. Edinburgh: National Galleries Scotland, NG 2548. The first decade of the 19th Century set the stage for the stunning array of styles that would come after it. Fig. These fashionable dresses were far less cumbersome than the boned stays and hooped petticoats of the early 1780s. Printed cotton. 7) (Tortora 321; Davidson 28-29). Fall-front gown, ca. Women frequently paired their white dresses with a striking dark-colored shawl, usually made of cashmere, muslin, percale, or gauze. How far did Spanish sartorial trends travel, especially beyond European borders? Silk, metal thread. 1800-1809 Accessories, 1800s. We can truly witness the influence and reflection of Spanish painter Salvador Dalis surrealistic style in designer Elsa Schiaparellis works. The Schofield Collection. Chanels original and modern styles were as revolutionary as Picassos cubism and the duo created a wonderful and historical amalgamation of art and fashion. 6 - Artist unknown (British). 1870-1800 Wool Twill Trousers. The men's long, narrow coats are trimmed with gold braid. Brummell, George (Beau)*.in. Sturdier printed cottons and patterned silks were common for daywear, and warmer wools were acceptable in the winter months (Figs. Cunnington 34-38). Pinterest. The veil can be either lace or a silk scarf on a high comb worn over the head and shoulders. Pinterest. 2 - Robert Dighton (British, 1752-1814). Fashion Plate: "Paris dress", October 1801. Commentdocument.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "af58c30ceb23774cb8605d37279f5aab" );document.getElementById("g033a35a37").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Using fashion plate imagery, the page follows the changes in the female fashion silhouette from the late 1790s to 1825. Breeches were replaced with close-fitting ankle-buttoned trousers, and coats with falling skirts and the lapel-less frocks became popular. Many of the authors look to archival materials and other primary sources to offer first-hand accounts of clothing, materials, and fashion. The uniforms of the Napoleonic Wars were some of the most lavish and elaborate in history, showing an unparalleled deployment of rich costumes, a veritable explosion of panache (le Bourhis 179). However, the new era brought forth by the Revolution saw the English style find its full expression. 6); pantaloons, which had originated in the 1790s, were very tightly-fitted and longer, extending to the calf or ankle where they fastened with ties or buttons (Fig. It was always elaborate, yet elegant. Tailors designed clothing that emphasized a masculine silhouette, adding padding to the shoulders and fitting shirts and coats at the waist. The simpler attire was meant to convey a sense of masculinity and practicality. 13 - Artist unknown (British). Ribeiros essay, A story of pride and prejudice: perceptions of Spain and Spanish dress in seventeenth-century England, in the anthology corresponds thematically with her book. Then, from age ten through their early teenage years, boys wore short, round jackets and waistcoats with closer-fitting trousers or pantaloons. Some examples of religious influence in Spanish fashion are females wearing veils to cover their head and shoulders or high collars with ruffs as a sign of modesty. Bathers at the beach, 1897. Cunnington 32-33). All social classes could partake in wearing individual garments and styles, but expensive dyes, fabrics, and trimmings could only be afforded by elites. Both long and short stays were worn; the new term corset referred to lightly boned or even simply corded supports, and these were often worn instead of stays. 5). Paris: Louvre Museum, R.F. Madame Rcamier, ne Julie (known as Juliette) Bernard, 1800. Partway through the 19th century, around 1837, the Victorian era began. Given by the Royal Scottish Academy 1910. Gift of Woodman Thompson. Through creativity, innovation, and competitiveness, be it haute couture from Balenciaga or casual wear from Zara, Spanish fashion is renowned and desired. And it was a time for ladies to care more about the way they looked. Professor John Wilson (nom de plume, "Christopher North"), 1785-1854, ca. Mrs. Robert Shurlock (Henrietta Ann Jane Russell, 1775-1849) and Her Daughter, Ann, 1801. Court costumes, increasingly diverged from fashion, continued for decades (Marschner). They put large wire or wooden hoops beneath their dresses, which fluffed up the skirts. Spencer jackets were also popular. Look at paintings or photographs from this time, and chances are the men will have beards, moustaches or sideburns - and sometimes elaborate combinations of all three. Morning coats, which were single-breasted and cut away from the front, were also quite popular. We are involved in both historic preservation and education. 3, 8) (Byrde 27). Hispanic Surnames: Why Two Last Names? 3) (Waugh 119). While white was considered correct for evening, the nearly transparent muslins were sometimes worn over colored silk slips, creating shimmering pastels (Fig. Men put aside their powdered wigs and donned tight-fitted trousers, high-collared linen shirts, and buttoned waistcoats in neutral blacks, blues, and browns. Very small children, up to age two or three, could be seen without any leg coverings under these frocks (Fig. While her focus is England, her book points out the crucial effect of Spanish styles during the early modern era and how specifically they were understood and interpreted by the English. Fashion legends abound that tell of women leaving off their stays entirely, and appearing with very little underwear at all; while it seems that some women really did abandon their stays, the practice was not widespread or mainstream. Source: State Hermitage Museum. 270. A matching silk suit, differentiated from pre-Revolutionary suits only by minor evolutions in cut and the scale of the embroidered motifs, was required at the Tuileries Palace (Fig. When a baby reached about six months old, the gowns shortened to calf-length to allow movement (Callahan). 5 - Jean-Bernard Duvivier (Belgian, 1762-1837). 1). 1804 Joseph Marie Jacquard invents the jacquard loom, which used punch cards to create complex designs. The braid, frogging, Brandenburg buttons, and tassels served as inspiration in civilian mens and womenswear for years (Johnston 14, 20). In 1900-1909, 20th century, artwork analysis, In 1770-1779, 18th century, artwork analysis, In 1800-1809, 19th century, film analysis, In 1800-1809, 19th century, artwork analysis, In 20th century, designer profile, LGBTQ+, In 1900-1909, 1910-1919, 20th century, blog, Last updated Aug 18, 2020 | Published on Jun 25, 2020, Callahan, Colleen R. Childrens Clothing. in. Rutger Jan Schimmelpenninck and his family, 1801-02, by Pierre-Paul Prud'hon Madame Raymond de Verninac by Jacques-Louis David, with clothes and chair in Directoire style. Prior to working as a Fashion Journalism Intern at ShilpaAhuja.com, she started her career as a Travel Writer and Digital Marketer, where she wrote for different spheres like medical services, film review, information technology, and real estate. Unless specifically noted, images used in the Timeline are not subject to this Creative Commons License applied to the written work from the Timeline. Given by Miss M. D. Nicholson. Unlike some of the ostentatious dandies of later eras, Brummells emphasis was on restraint and simple elegance. The 1840s were the last years of the Romantic Era (Tortora 328), but the exuberant buoyancy of the Romanticism that marked womenswear in the 1820s and 1830s had developed into a drooping, subdued style more associated with the Gothic Revival (Byrde 45). 1800-1810. Silk. The riding coat, a less formal choice, sloped gently from the waist back to the tails (Fig. Women in North America adopted the popular fashions of France, but with more durable fabrics and practical styling, such as eschewing long trains in the back of the gown. During his reign, he puts France at the forefront of fashion innovation and design. Many translated example sentences containing "fashion in 1800" - Spanish-English dictionary and search engine for Spanish translations. After that age, boys wore trousers under their frocks; girls did as well but since their hemlines descended to ankle-length, it was harder to discern their trousers, or drawers as they would later be called (P. Cunnington 161; Buck 109). Along with these, designer Spanish brands like Paco Rabanne, Carolina Herrera, Manolo Blahnik, and Miguel Adrover have all left their imprint on the international fashion landscape. Oil on canvas; 236 x 149.30 cm. The Journal Des Dames et Des Modes: Fashioning Women in the Arts, c. 18001815., Siegfried, Susan. [via google translate] 1800 - Taffeta jacket in brown wool. Both breeches and pantaloons were worn, both featuring fall-front openings (Waugh 116). The chief goal of any supportive undergarment was to raise and shape the breasts, as their natural roundness was desirable for the first time (Davidson 64). Chronology, n.d. Gontar, Cybele. Still, neoclassicism continued to dominate fashionable dress (Fig. 11) and the redingote, both types of coat, and the spencer, a cropped jacket (Ashelford 179; C.W. As Bernis and Descalzo state, three elements of womens fashion were commonplace in the 16th century the busk (cartn de pecho), farthingale (verdugado), and cork-soled platform shoes (chapines). These commentaries and interpretations suggest both a fascination with and an aversion for Spanish dress. Dress (round gown), ca. Hairdressing further underscored the classical inspiration of the era; styles were frequently given names from antiquity such lAgrippine and la Phdre (le Bourhis 80). The influence of the European fashion districts is clearly a turning point in history. The felted quality of the material allowed it to be cut with raw edges, and the high collar sloped down into lapels cut with either an M or V shaped notch (Davidson 28).